How to Remove and Replace Plaster With Drywall?

Table of Contents

    Owners of historic properties take great care to preserve their homes’ classic appeal. However, as time progresses, new issues will emerge and require attention.

    The reality, however, is that it is easier to say than to do.

    There will be more time and effort needed to fix up an older house than a newer one. Assuming that this is ever possible, the cost will be quite high.

    This causes a common dilemma for homeowners, who must decide between practicality and aesthetics. Should they go with more affordable repairs that change the look of their home?

    However, do they still go above and above to maintain the home’s outward beauty, even if doing so exceeds their budgeted expenses?

    Plaster and lath walls, common in such dwellings, are a prime example of this issue. Especially if it has a unique texture, they have a personality that is difficult, if not impossible, to replicate with today’s methods.

    Drywall is more accessible, but it lacks the same aesthetic and textural qualities.

    It will cost more than $10,000 to drywall over the walls of a 2,000 square foot home.

    Also, plaster is generally considered a higher-grade material than drywall, so it shouldn’t be replaced for drywall.

    Let’s say you’ve researched replacing lath and plaster with drywall and are confident in your ability to do it. That’s why it’s important to think about it before making a decision.

    Once you understand the steps involved, making a decision on this matter may become less of a challenge.

    Did you know, though, that lead can also be found in the soil around your house?

    The average cost to have drywall installed in place of plaster, if done by a professional, is $1,020 to $2,800.

    Instructions for Changing Over from Plaster to Drywall

    Removing plaster from walls is not a difficult task, but it is time consuming and untidy. Plaster walls typically use lath, which consists of thin wood slats. Lath is fixed directly to the studs in a wall, providing support for the plaster coat.

    After taking down the plaster, you can either replace it or leave the lath in place.

    The drywall boards are firmly supported and held in place by the lath. If you need to run wires, instal pipes, or instal insulation between the wall studs, you’ll have an easier time doing so if the lath is removed.

    The only time this is acceptable is if you need to pull down walls to make electrical or plumbing repairs. Drywall seems like a viable replacement in those case. But even ignoring that, it’s a bad plan overall. First, I’ll tell you why.

    Have I reached the Point Where I Need to Replace It?

    Plaster made of lath is commonly used to finish the interior walls of older homes. Most houses use wood lath, but you may also come across metal or rock lath.

    However, building methods remain consistent regardless of substrate. Three coats of plaster and lath strips are applied over the existing timber studs.

    Rendering is done first, and it’s utilised to seal the joints and fill the gaps between the laths.

    Next comes a floaty layer that will make the third layer nice and flat. The setup layer is the very last one, and it’s where all the extra flourishes will go.

    The following, however, must be considered before making a decision to replace it:

    Save it if…

    • New, properly installed lath and plaster walls will cost you at least $15 per square foot, but if you want your home to seem uniform as you expand, it will cost you more.
    • Maintaining its visual appeal would necessitate regular professional inspections and upkeep.
    • You have spaces with interesting angles or shapes that are hard to replicate.
    • You don’t want to have to deal with the hassle and clutter that comes with tearing down walls. You may find yourself unable to live in your home for a few weeks.
    • You’re looking for it because of the improvements in safety and quiet it provides during a fire. Possible improvements include more soundproofing and better insulation. The existing drywall does not provide enough of it.
    • You’ve had an asbestos and heavy metals inspection performed on your home. Even though they are dangerous, they can often be discovered in older homes that are either devoid of it or have had it encapsulated.

    Due of the high costs in time, money, dust, and grime, it’s best to just replace it as it wears out instead. The good news is that you can usually handle minor issues on your own.

    However, if the damage is extensive and poses a threat to the integrity of your home’s structural integrity as a whole, continuing to utilise lath and plaster could be rather costly.

    In order to avoid complications, it is essential to use a professional contractor with experience installing this kind.

    Lead or asbestos should be replaced if encapsulation is not an option.

    A need for encapsulation or replacement might be inferred from the presence of chalking or dust in gaps or missing parts.

    Both lead dust and asbestos can cause fatal illnesses in humans.

    Important: Always consult a specialist if there is even a slight suspicion that led may be present in your home.

    what is plaster mesh & why use it?

    Safety Measurements

    Before you can repair the plaster on your walls, you’ll need to remove it.

    The purpose of this test is to determine whether or not the lath framework that currently supports the panels has to be replaced.

    Not only that, but it may also remove the old wall’s plaster and lath to create way for the new construction.

    When removing plaster, it is imperative that all participants take the following basic safety measures:

    • The two most prevalent forms of protective clothing are safety goggles and fully covering work uniforms. The proper face mask is also needed. A mask designed to prevent exposure to asbestos should also shield the wearer from lead.
    • Vacating the area to be plastered is the first step in removing the plaster. Covering them with plastic sheets is an alternative if this is not possible. The outlet plate covers should be removed as well, and protective covering should be placed over floors and entryways to avoid damage and maintain a clean appearance. When it comes to floor protection, plywood is unrivalled.
    • Turning off the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning system and sealing off any other possible entry points will prevent dust from settling in the building. Stop the spores from dispersing to neighbouring rooms. Lead and asbestos particles can remain inside these vents long after the job is done, causing damage to your property. When you turn on, you’re heating and cooling system, you may be exposed to them immediately.
    • Shut off the water and power before inspecting the walls for supply connections. A chain reaction of problems and damage could be triggered by an accident to their wires.
    • Look at the floor plans and the blueprints to see if the renovation could compromise the integrity of your house. If you’re dealing with weight-bearing parts, this is an absolute must.
    • Only select this if you have experience with construction or remodelling. If you don’t have the necessary expertise, you should hire outside help.

    There will be chaos in this work.

    However, it will be useful to have numerous garbage cans located throughout the workplace. It will also facilitate cleanup by leading to the development of a dumpster large enough to contain all the debris and waste generated.

    It’s a good idea to add support to the wall in the area where the plaster will be removed if you can’t tell how stable the framework is. For this, you’ll need to fasten 12-inch-thick planks to the wall’s edge.

    Remove the Plaster

    1. In the centre of the top of one of the walls, whack it with the hammer or crowbar to break through the plaster and expose the lath. After inserting the crowbar’s claw end into the hole, the tool should be slid lower through the plaster. Dig a hole that is vertically aligned from the top to the bottom with your spade.
    2. Make room for the large trash can next to the hole in the wall. The container will catch a considerable percentage of the plaster dust and debris as you remove it, reducing the amount of dust that escapes into the air and the number of plaster shards that fall to the ground.
    3. The spade must be horizontal before it can be inserted into the top gash in the wall. To remove the plaster from the lath, cut it horizontally with the spade blade and then scoop it into the can. This approach allows the plaster to be peeled off the lath in thicker, more manageable sheets. The plaster sheets can be caught by dragging the can horizontally across the floor in front of the wall.
    4. Shop with the spade and make more gashes with the crowbar to get all the plaster off the lath.
    5. Plaster dust and debris should be swept up with a shovel and collected in five-gallon buckets for disposal. To get the best results, clean up any loose plaster before removing the lath.

    How to Remove Lath

    Carefully removing the lath while armed with protective gear is a necessary. The wood used is exceptionally dry, making it brittle and prone to breakage; splinters from this wood can cause serious harm.

    This is the standard procedure for elimination:

    1. Discover where the laths are attached to the wall studs. It’s best to start working on the ends of the lath strips to make sure they’re all removed together. In comparison to removing a whole strip, removing a damaged one is quite challenging.
    2. Using a crowbar or the chiselled end of the hammer, pry one end of a lath strip away from the timber stud to which it has been fastened. It’s not hard to get rid of the laths and nails. Strips of lath can be removed in bulk from one side before working on the opposing end.
    3. Carefully set each piece aside to avoid stumbling over the nails that are stuck in the lath.

    The process of removing plaster is far more time-consuming than taking down lath. Still, it’s a lot of work and takes a long time. There’s also a chance that asbestos and lead traces will be present in the dust and debris that settles between the laths.

    Only the bare bones will remain. This will be used once more in the drywall installation process. It is also used as a base for the drywall.

    Things You Will Need

    • Gloves for heavy labour
    • Protective glasses
    • Protective gear: face mask, ladder, and hammer
    • The Flat-bladed Crowbar Spade
    • Plastic garbage can that holds 33 gallons
    • Wheelbarrow

    Tip

    If the plaster is making the air too dry, you can spritz water into the air with a spray bottle.

    Due to the dust being captured by the water droplets, it will fall to the ground more rapidly. To avoid making a muddy mess on the floor, though, it’s important not to go overboard.

    Plaster and lath are extremely abrasive and might severely damage floors if they were to fall to the ground.

    Protect the floor from danger by covering it with heavy plywood.

    In other words, you never know what’s going on behind that wall of lath and plaster.

    Books, coins, or even the bones of long-extinct rodents could be discovered. It’s a good idea to stock up on plastic grocery bags so you may use them to store dead animals, mouse nests, and other unpleasant and smelly items. Wear protective gloves if handling deceased animals.

    plasterer works plastering two trowels plasterboard blue uniform

    Warning

    Asbestos particles and lead paint may be present in older plaster. These chemicals are exceedingly toxic and pose serious health risks, including damage to the central nervous system, respiratory problems, and other disorders.

    Ask the local building department if there is lead paint or asbestos in the plaster walls. Local and state regulations require that a registry of businesses that do hazardous material testing and removal be maintained.

    The nails in the lath strips may be very corroded and harbour Clostridium tetani, the bacterium responsible for tetanus. Wear sturdy work gloves when handling the lath. If you need a tetanus shot, get one now.

    How to Replace It with Drywall?

    Putting up drywall in place of lath and plaster can be done in two different ways:

    • Plaster over the existing lath once it has been removed.
    • Complete the demolition of the existing plaster and lath and replace it with drywall.

    The decision to drywall over the laths may be difficult for homeowners like you to make. But there are a few things you need to know before deciding:

    • You might just be replacing the plaster with drywall. Panels can be installed over preexisting laths without disturbing any preexisting connections or attachments to the walls. It consists of things like door jambs and window casings. However, removing the laths will make the new drywall wall deeper than the previous one. You’ll need to make a few adjustments.
    • Wiring and insulating a space with laths present is a daunting task at best. When working with drywall, you are free to do so.
    • If drywall is put up over defective lath, the damage may still be visible.

    Regardless of the approach you select, the installation process will be essentially the same. And here’s how to do it, whether or not you have access to any rusty laths:

    1. Making sure the lath strips are properly secured is essential. Inspect each piece of lath and re-nail it to the wall if it needs to be. All the nails that have come out need to be re-nailed as well. No nails should be sticking out of the surface.
    2. Clean the laths and studs of any dirt and debris.
    3. Start at one of the ceiling’s upper corners and work your way down to where a horizontal drywall panel will go. It’s important to centre the panel’s ends on the studs. You may rest assured that they will be securely fastened.
    4. Use 2-inch drywall screws to fasten the panel’s ends. These screws need to go all the way through the wood studs and be spaced out by at least 6 inches.
    5. When you’re done with the first panel, instal the second one next to it. When installed properly, the stud’s centre will be at the point where the two panels meet. Keep the distance between panels to a minimum. Painting over the gap with tape might not be a perfect solution because it might still be visible after painting.
    6. It’s likely that you’ll have to cut the last panel down to size in order to finish a row. Scoring the panel’s paper face with a utility knife will accomplish this. Just flip it over and bend it along the goal line and it will snap cleanly in half.
    7. After the first row is complete, instal the panel directly below it. Continue doing this until you have the panels mounted on the entire wall.

    What You Can Expect to Spend on the Procedure

    While doing it yourself could save you a lot of money in the long run, you will still have to pay for the supplies you need.

    You should invest in lead and asbestos testing before beginning. In this way, you will be prepared to deal with any potential threats to your safety. Lead and asbestos testing could cost several hundred dollars.

    If you don’t already have the necessary protective clothing and tools, you may expect to spend between $100 and $200 on things like safety glasses, earplugs, a hammer, a crowbar, a hard hat, a putty knife, and other such necessities.

    The drywall is going to be the most expensive part of the job. When drywall panels are made larger, their price always rises. Additionally, you’ll get to choose the type of drywall panels used. Standard drywall panels are the most affordable, although water- and mold-resistant varieties may run you a bit more. It is possible to create soundproof drywall panels at any pricing point.

    Initial costs for a 4×8 panel should be around $10, while a 4×16 panel should run between $15 and $20. Do the arithmetic to determine how many panels will be required. The greater the structure, the higher the price will be.

    When you factor in the expense of drywall, lead and asbestos testing, and protective gear, even a small room will set you back more than $500 if you’re doing it from scratch. Assuming you already have all the necessary equipment and don’t need any more testing, the material cost for a medium-sized room might be as low as $200 and as high as $300.

    When is it time to switch from plaster to drywall?

    If you were to fully gut the house and start over with new plumbing, wiring, and insulation, drywall would be a better choice than plaster.

    You should expect a significant price rise if you need to have the plaster walls re-installed. Of course, since the walls are coming down anyway, drywall is a foregone conclusion for the replacement material.

    If you’re dealing with a very old house that hasn’t been updated, a remodel of this scope may make sense. On the other hand, for the typical buyer of a well-maintained older property.

    Conclusion

    Drywall installation, which can be done in place of plaster, typically costs between $1,020 and $2,800 if done by a professional. Drywall doesn’t have the same visual and tactile appeal as plaster.

    Plaster removal is a relatively easy process, but it is time-consuming and messy. Lath plaster is widely used to finish the walls of older homes’ interiors. Lath is typically made of wood, although you could also find it made of metal or rock.

    You may expect to pay around $15 a square foot for brand-new lath and plaster walls that have been expertly installed. If encapsulation is not feasible, lead and asbestos should be replaced.

    Lead and asbestos are equally deadly to humans. Cancel the use of the HVAC system. Do not let the spores spread to other areas.

    You should get professional assistance if you need more skills. Planks 12 inches thick will need to be attached to the face of the wall. With your spade, create a perfectly vertical hole from top to bottom.

    Plaster may be easily removed off the lath by cutting it in half horizontally with a spade blade and then scooping it into the can. Taking down walls with lath and plaster is a laborious and time-consuming process.

    Potentially present in the dust and rubble are asbestos and lead particles. Bacteria that can cause tetanus, Clostridium tetani, may be hiding in lath strips.

    Drywall can be placed directly over laths without removing any existing wall fixtures or attachments. Verify the lath and re-nail it to the wall if it is loose. If the damaged lath is covered with drywall and then painted over, the damage may still be visible.

    Pre-construction lead and asbestos testing are a must. The least expensive option is drywall panels, though water- and mould-resistant variants can run you a bit more. If you’re starting from scratch, even a tiny room will cost you more than $500.

    Content Summary

    • More time and effort will be needed to fix an older house than a newer one.
    • It will cost more than $10,000 to drywall over the walls of a 2,000-square-foot home.
    • Let’s say you’ve researched replacing lath and plaster with drywall and are confident in your ability to do it.
    • The average cost to have drywall installed in place of plaster, if done by a professional is $1,020 to $2,800.Removing plaster from walls is a simple task, but it is time-consuming and untidy.
    • This is only acceptable if you need to pull down walls to make electrical or plumbing repairs.
    • Drywall seems like a viable replacement in those cases.
    • Plaster made of lath is commonly used to finish the interior walls of older homes.
    • New, properly installed lath and plaster walls will cost you at least $15 per square foot, but if you want your home to seem uniform as you expand, it will cost you more.
    • The existing drywall needs to provide more of it.
    • You’ve had an asbestos and heavy metals inspection performed on your home.
    • However, if the damage is extensive and threatens your home’s structural integrity as a whole, continuing to utilise lath and plaster could be rather costly.
    • Lead or asbestos should be replaced if encapsulation is not an option.
    • Before you can repair the plaster on your walls, you’ll need to remove it.
    • Vacating the area to be plastered is the first step in removing the plaster.
    • When you turn on your heating and cooling systems, you may be exposed to them immediately.
    • Shut off the water and power before inspecting the walls for supply connections.
    • Look at the floor plans and the blueprints to see if the renovation could compromise the integrity of your house.
    • However, having numerous garbage cans in the workplace will be useful.
    • In the centre of the top of one of the walls, whack it with the hammer or crowbar to break through the plaster and expose the lath.
    • Dig a hole that is vertically aligned from top to bottom with your spade.
    • Make room for the large trash can next to the hole in the wall.
    • Shop with the spade and make more gashes with the crowbar to get all the plaster off the lath.
    • Using a crowbar or the chiselled end of the hammer, pry one end of a lath strip away from the timber stud to which it has been fastened.
    • The process of removing plaster is far more time-consuming than taking down lath.
    • This will be used once more in the drywall installation process.
    • Protect the floor from danger by covering it with heavy plywood.
    • Asbestos particles and lead paint may be present in older plaster.
    • Ask the local building department if there is lead paint or asbestos in the plaster walls.
    • The nails in the lath strips may be very corroded and harbour Clostridium tetani, the bacterium responsible for tetanus.
    • Complete the demolition of the existing plaster and lath, and replace it with drywall.
    • Choosing to drywall over the laths may take time for homeowners like you.
    • However, removing the laths will make the new drywall wall deeper than the previous one.
    • It’s important to centre the panel’s ends on the studs.
    • After the first row is complete, install the panel directly below it.
    • Continue doing this until you have the panels mounted on the entire wall.
    • While doing it yourself could save you a lot of money in the long run, you will still have to pay for the supplies you need.
    • The drywall is going to be the most expensive part of the job.
    • When you factor in the expense of drywall, lead and asbestos testing, and protective gear, even a small room will save you more than $500 if you’re doing it from scratch.

    Frequently Asked Questions About Plaster

    Why Is Drywall Better Than Traditional Plaster Walls?

    The biggest benefit is that drywall is more stable than plaster. So even though settling cracks will take place occasionally, drywall usually has an easier time withstanding these cracks than plaster.

    Is It Hard to Knock Down a Plaster Wall?

    Removing it or knocking it down is not hard, but it sure is messy. So you’ll want to take precautions to ensure it’s done safely.

    Is Plaster More Expensive Than Drywall?

    Plaster costs more than drywall.

    Because plaster requires more of a specialized skill than drywall installation and takes longer to complete, the labour alone will usually run about three times higher or more than drywall installation. The material costs are comparable.

    Should I Remove Plaster or Drywall Over It?

    If you want to cover an unsightly wall where the plaster is in good shape, go ahead and attach drywall over the plaster. If you have long-term plans for the house that include updating wiring and insulation, a good time to do those projects is right after plaster removal when the stud spaces are open.

    Can You Drywall Mud Over Plaster?

    All-purpose joint compound is a building material drywall finishers use to spackle, or mud, a drywall installation. All-purpose joint compound adheres well to most surfaces, so you can use it to make repairs on plaster walls.

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